We decided to hire a car and driver, to take us from Sciacca to our next destination, the mountaintop town of Erice. I had visited this town years ago, but only spent a few hours there, so I wanted to go back, and really have the chance to explore it. Since we were going to spend four days there, this time, we rented a one-bedroom apartment for ourselves. We arrived, and quickly settled in. The apartment was small, but it was clean, and it would be fine for the four days, or so we thought, but more on that later. Meanwhile, we unpacked a bit, and then, headed out to explore!
A word of warning for anyone planning to visit Erice off season! We arrived in early November. The peak tourist season comes to an end, at the end of October. We literally arrived two days later. But, that two days made a huge difference in what we could experience in the town. The major attractions, such as church and museums, were closed for the season. With the exception of the Duomo, there was not a thing we could see. Places did open up for a few hours on the weekends, but we arrived on a Monday, and we were only staying four days. All the things I had told myself I wanted to see, when I had visited years before, would still go unseen, because they were all closed! Nowhere on any website did I read that this would be the case, or else we would have planned differently. Still, we were there for four days, and we would make the best of it, by taking nice long walks, and enjoying the tranquility and peace that life in a small mountaintop town brings.
The town of Erice has a very long and rich history. Founded by the Phoenicians, it later became a Greek colony, with the name Eryx. During the First Punic War, the town was destroyed by the Carthaginians. In 831, the Aghlabids took over, and the town was ruled by the Arabs until the Norman Conquest, in 1167. Walking the streets, history seems to radiate from every wall, and with every stone you walk on, you seem to fall deeper and deeper into the spell of the place. Because you are at the top of a mountain, the weather is also very different, even from what the city of Trapani, below you, is experiencing. In Erice, in November, it will at least be much cooler than below, and for some odd reason, even if the sun is shining brightly in Trapani, and the surrounding area, Erice will be covered by dark, threatening clouds. It all adds to the atmosphere of the place, so the best thing to do, and what we tried to accomplish, was to simply settle in, and let whatever happens happen. Luckily, for us, the day we arrived was a nice one, with lots of sun. However, that changed quickly!
Every year, in Erice, there is a festival of urban street art, which draws artists from all over Sicily. This year, the theme was “Umanità e Bellezza”, or “Humanity and Beauty.”
The former Convento di San Domenico dates from the 15th century, and now houses the Center for Scientific Culture “Ettore Majorana.” The former convent holds the center’s auditorium, as well as a small museum displaying tools, photos, and artifacts used in the study of astrophysics. Of course, the complex was closed, because of an event taking place, while we were in town!
Next up: We continue our exploration of the town of Erice!
Note: This blog is written in English and Spanish, and the author takes no responsibility for the quality of any other translations that may appear. If you have enjoyed this post, please, check out our archives for posts from other Italian destinations. Grazie!